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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Well I went with the rubber tranny mount because until your post I have not found anyone saying against it, I have read rubber MM+poly tranny mount is a bad idea but only good things about poly MM+ rubber tranny. The motor mounts do the majority of the work, I'm just gonna stick with it for now and see what happens.

As far as the steering, its sounding more and more like I should just replace everything. I do like metal cloak products and their track bar is $100 less than curries so I think that sounds like a plan, then I'll go with currie for the tie rod and drag link(or maybe just currie for everything). Hopefully all of that should fix all my issues. Doesn't look like I can go the cheap and easy way anymore since all my bushings will still need to be replaced. Thanks for the help guys
 
#22 ·
Apocalypticsurf6 said:
Well I went with the rubber tranny mount because until your post I have not found anyone saying against it, I have read rubber MM+poly tranny mount is a bad idea but only good things about poly MM+ rubber tranny. The motor mounts do the majority of the work, I'm just gonna stick with it for now and see what happens.

As far as the steering, its sounding more and more like I should just replace everything. I do like metal cloak products and their track bar is $100 less than curries so I think that sounds like a plan, then I'll go with currie for the tie rod and drag link(or maybe just currie for everything). Hopefully all of that should fix all my issues. Doesn't look like I can go the cheap and easy way anymore since all my bushings will still need to be replaced. Thanks for the help guys
Click to expand...
I very well could be incorrect. I used Brown Dog rubber MMs and used OEM rubber on the tranny mount from the dealer.

Good luck!
 
#23 ·
You will also want to check your unit bearings and ball joints using the 'Dry steering test'. I replaced my worn unit bearings and worn lower ball joints and have better control than before. I had been battling poor steering and handling for 16 months, chasing my tail until I changed all of the parts at the same time, eyeballing worn out hardware as well.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Well ordered the currie ultimate currectlink drag link and savvy tie rod combo along with the currie track bar. Says it will be here unfortunately tuesday, so much for banging it out this weekend. One thing I'm wondering though, when I did my 4" lift I had to drill a new hole for the lower trackbar connection closer to the center for it to fit. I assume with the new adjustable track bar I will use the original mounting hole? It says its for 2-6" of lift so I'd guess its a little longer than stock
 
#26 · (Edited)
Apocalypticsurf6 said:
ok maybe I'm confused but I though the new steering came with all new joints and such?
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Not ball joints or unit bearings. You only listed the track bar (which is not steering anyway), tie rod and drag link. There are also the ends for these. What you bought should include all of them.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Just installed the new currie trac bar, drag link and tie rod yesterday and got an alignment done. The earth shaking death wobble is gone, but I have a new issue. The lower trac bar bolt is loose. I torqued it down as best I could but the tab on the nutplate broke free from the nut and now theres a little shimmy left and right when I do a dry steer test. I can feel this mainly on the highway, the jeep just feels a little unstable shifting back an forth. Its a very small amount of movement but it seems to be making a big impact. Going to try and get a new bolt and nutplate from Jeep tomorrow but im worried about that bracket. Any good solutions for this? Would love to replace that bracket with something beefier. Also any ideas on how to get that bolt out? I need to recenter the axle anyways, its off by about 1/4 of an inch, just remeasured after the alignment.
 
#29 ·
I bought the lower track bar nut and bolt from the dealership - both were overpriced. I went to the True Value hardware store where I found a slightly Larger diameter nut/bolt combo. Red Loctite kept my hardware tight for the past 6 thousand miles. Before applying Loctite, I was torquing the bolt 3 to 4 times per week. On my '33 to35" thread is a photo of the heavy duty track bar plate with the tight hole drilled to keep the front end free of producing shimmys - installed and fabricated by a local fabricator for only $100 !
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
well I guess il have to see when my fab guy can get me in. Was hoping someone could recommend a weld in bracket already formed and drilled though. I would think that would cost me a bit less than having him custom make me a bracket. Anyone have any ideas how to get that nut off the back? Cant get a wrench in there to grab it.... Could cut the front of the bolt off but it will still be stuck in there... I have a feeling we will need to cut the old bracket out and weld in an entirely new one... Even if only to get that bolt out
 
#31 ·
Apocalypticsurf6 said:
Just installed the new currie trac bar, drag link and tie rod yesterday and got an alignment done. The earth shaking death wobble is gone, but I have a new issue. The lower trac bar bolt is loose. I torqued it down as best I could but the tab on the nutplate broke free from the nut and now theres a little shimmy left and right when I do a dry steer test. I can feel this mainly on the highway, the jeep just feels a little unstable shifting back an forth. Its a very small amount of movement but it seems to be making a big impact. Going to try and get a new bolt and nutplate from Jeep tomorrow but im worried about that bracket. Any good solutions for this? Would love to replace that bracket with something beefier. Also any ideas on how to get that bolt out? I need to recenter the axle anyways, its off by about 1/4 of an inch, just remeasured after the alignment.
Click to expand...
After you get that trac bar issue resolved, start planning/saving for, replacing your upper & lower control arms. I'd do the uppers first (Currie JJ)!

It's only a matter of time before you destroy those zerk fittings... (You could flip them...)
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Sorry thought I had already done a thank you post, my fab guy hooked me up (Tom's Machine Shop) got me in same day I called, got a brand new bolt in for me, tracbar is solid now, he also saved my ass and caught the fact that the caster bolts on the lower control arms were missing their washers that seat inside the alignment notches. Cant even imagine how those went missing... Jeep is driving beautifully now, feels like a sports car compared to how it was before, slop is gone and deathwobble cured!!

Which zerk fittings are you talking about? on my new currie steering components? I'm planning on doing shocks>tom woods DC DS>clayton 3link front long arm upgrade kit with the brace>clayton triangulated rear long arm upgrade with brace as well. Seen some controversy of short arms vs long arms but pretty sure for my needs long arm is the better option. I'm mostly driving in sand, Pine Barrens of NJ and Island Beach State Park. Not crawling over many rocks
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
You have an excellent eye sir, as does Tom. He caught this as well and repositioned my front axle correctly and fixed the issue with the front control arms. Things like this my untrained eyes just don't pick up. I'll take some photos tomorrow hopefully, wouldn't mind a double check. It's incredible the difference it made driving. I didn't realize how loose my front end was. The steering is now firm and precise, not even a little bump steer and absolutely no deathwobble. Just trying to figure out now why my back right wheel is toed in slightly and when it hits a solid bump I can hear a click. On the highway the rear wanders very very slightly. The guy that did my alignment said it might be a rear control arms bushing but he works at pepboys and wasn't sure at all so yea...
 
#35 ·
That click you hear?

Look above your rear trackbar towards the gas tank skid.

I'm planning on doing shocks>tom woods DC DS>clayton 3link front long arm upgrade kit with the brace>clayton triangulated rear long arm upgrade with brace
Click to expand...
Good luck with that!

You'd be better off with a TT, Metalcloak fenders, 2.5-3" springs, small BL, Currie adjustable arms and their rear trackbar. Thats just my opinion...

Later on you could upgrade the brakes, gears, axles and run 37's...
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Well I do agree with the TT, that will be done. I will absolutely get metal cloaks as well but they will be held off until I go to 37's in order to clear them. As far as reducing my lift, no. I am building on the 4" platform, I have no intentions to ever go higher or lower. Its perfect for my current build on 33's and should still be perfect with the metal cloaks when I go to 37's. I will do a small BL if I must to make the TT work but honestly I really don't want to. If I do it will be a 1/2" BL just to help fit my transfer case. The reason I plan to do the Clayton long arm kit is because it uses all currie ends but also comes with all new brackets so I can throw out the factory crap. On top of that when I go to do my stretch all I need to buy from them is their stretch upgrade kit which is basically just longer rods that I can swap in and still keep the same brackets and johnny joints. An adjustable rear track bar might not be a bad idea though. Is there any reason you don't recommend buying a new Tom Woods DC rear drive shaft so I can chuck my 2" transfer case drop? I feel like thats a pretty standard and obvious upgrade. I will check out what your talking about for the click tomorrow when its light out again.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Wait with 4 link I can eliminate my rear trackbar? O_O
Sorry I knew its a nice upgrade but I guess I missed that detail if thats what you imply.
I would actually love to do metal cloaks right now but when I do them im doing front and rear together, hate the 50/50 look. But to me they dont help me mechanically so I'm forcing myself to wait ha. Going to do the drive shaft first and at the same time Nth degree shock shifters since I need to correct the shock angle anyways
 
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Apocalypticsurf6
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