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2012 Rubi Electric sway bar not re-connecting

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1.6K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  brian d  
#1 ·
Hi everyone,
Background: 2012 Rubicon, 112,000 miles, 2" Mopar lift, 34" BFG KOs, skid plates for sway bar, front and rear diffs, 10 year anniversary bumpers, winch, etc. Bottom line, no major heavy-duty mods or loads on my Rubi, and while I go to challenging places, I am very careful not to abuse it.

After off-roading Saturday, I went to re-connect my front sway bar as always, by pushing the "sway bar" switch on my dash. No dice. I drove to the dealer and they said after diagnosing that the electrical components (switch, solenoid, etc.) all the electrical was working fine, but that the mechanical parts inside are not sliding the sway bar back to engage position. They asked/implied that I have been submarining it in deep mud. I said nope.

I have the lifetime warranty with the $100 deductible, so I asked them to check and see if it wouldn't be covered under that. I got "the call" today from my service advisor saying that the replacement of the sway bar is not covered by the warranty :awesome: and that it would approximately $2,700 before any discounts.

1) Anyone had this occur to their Rubi? What did you do about it? Repair the unit, or replace with stock or aftermarket?

2) Did Jeep cover it under warranty, or give you a good price break?

Thanks in advance
 
#2 ·
if you have a warranty it should be covered, not sure what the purpose of having a warranty is otherwise. If your sway bar motor is truly fubared I would just go with the EVO manual conversion on the motor. it is a nice set up and takes the place of the motor and uses a knob to connect and disco. You will need a procal to program the light on the dash to stop flashing but they are useful so you want one anyway especially if going bigger tires etc.
 
owns 2024 jeep wrangler rubicon
#3 ·
Agree with jadmt. Electronic disconnects are not on the list of what's not covered by the life time warranty. Did they explain why coverage is being denied. If it's not going to be covered I would use the EVO conversion.
 
#4 ·
I have seen plenty of those systems taken apart. 1- Electronic actuator and 2- coupling mechanism.

Sounds like they said the mechanical coupling mechanism is locked up. That is not a common failure. If you unbolt the electronic actuator form the coupling than it should spring load automatically to the locked position. You should be able to test this fairly easy by parking one wheel on a curb and see if the two sides are connected.

Even if the mechanical mechanism is damaged I would think you could possible replace individual parts. Maybe the slip coupler is stuck and binding.
 
#8 ·
jeepin48/others,
thanks for your suggestions on the problem and how to disassemble. I did not get any encouraging feedback from my tech on availability of any mechanical parts, so I bought a new assembly ($1,450) and will be installing it shortly. I'm off-road a lot so the convenience of electronic disconnect is worth the cost to me. Interestingly, I've been driving it for about 4 weeks disconnected while going through the diagnostic process and getting a new assembly and have gotten used to the looser handling. It's not as bad as one might imagine (but I'm pretty chill in my lane changes and really hard braking!).
 
#9 ·
it's going to fail again eventually. open it up once a year and clean it out and grease the hell out of it. pull the plug and give that a good coating of dielectric grease. mine was full of corrosion. cleaned her up, greased her and works like a charm. took about 2 hours total.
https://youtu.be/1P8-y4Ia5QY
 
#10 ·
One thing about running without on the street is they are fine under most conditions but in an emergency maneuver you can loose control,and you can never prepare for those situations.
 
owns 2024 jeep wrangler rubicon
#12 ·
I just went through this last week! I could here the electronics working, but it wouldn't unlock.

Take the sway bar off to disassemble. It is very easy. 4 frame mounts and the links. Mine was off in 10 minutes.

Pull apart the side opposite of the electrical connector. When I took the bolts out and cracked it open, about a cup of water poured out. Take everything thing out and utilize your rust removal method of choice. I sand blasted some of the parts and steal wooled some others.

Fill it with as much grease as you can, use some RTV on the mating surfaces and bolt it all back together and back onto the jeep.

Mine works great now.